Rescues: A How-To Kit


Additional Resources:
Tame adult cats living outdoors:
  • If location is safe then can be spayed, returned. You must give daily care.
  • If location in unsafe then capture ASAP.
    Either hold for adoption or surrender to shelter.
  • Do not release tame kittens outdoors.

Feral cats living outdoors:
  • If location is unsafe then trap and re-locate or surrender to shelter.
  • If location is safe then TTVARM:
    Trap, Test, Vaccinate, Alter, Release, Manage.
    Do not return Leukemia or FIV positive cats to the colony.

TTVARM: (We employ this approach.)
  • Preparation: feed cats in same spot, same time every day. Count all cats.
    You will trap at that time and spot. Often, they don't need a shelter. Can build a quick shelter as per below.

  • Safe Traps. Professional quality are:
    Tomahawk www.livetrap.com kittens: #105.5 $48.61
    adults: #107 $66.12
    Heart of the Earth www.animal-traps.com kittens: #24 $44.00
    adults: #30 $60.00
    two night boarding #36D $85.00
    Shipping extra.
    Tomahawk - discounts more than six traps.
    Shipping extra.
    Heart of the Earth - discounts more than two traps.

  • Low Cost Sterilization Clinics:
      Maryland SPCA handles dogs under 85 pounds, tame and feral cats www.mdspca.org
        Humane Society Baltimore County handles dogs over 85 pounds, www.bmorehumane.org
          Linthicum, MD Nursery Rd www.catrusrescue.com
            Sykesville, MD Liberty Rd www.metroferals.org
            Ask your vet to set-up a low cost plan using the SNAP prices.
            Offer to buy Test Kits, vaccine and surgical supplies.

        • Need FIV/FELV Test kits:
            This is the corner stone of TTVARM or TNR.
            www.idexx.com has reduced prices for I.R.S. 501(C)3 non-profits.

        TRAPPING:
        • Capture your cats on day before the vet appointment.
        • Place newspaper in the bottom of trap.
        • Use cheap seafood cat food. A little bit in center. A lot in the back on elevated tray.
        • Only takes a few minutes when cats arrive to eat. Never leave a trap unattended.
        • Cover trap immediately when cat inside. Hold a bed sheet in front of you to cover.
        • Move trap immediately to vehicle. Always keep a full cover on the trap.
        • Leave cats in their traps and store on top of bricks. Must go to vet next morning.
        • Retain cats in traps after surgery: 1 night for male, 2 nights for female.
        • Release cats to exact same place where trapped.
        • Continue this process until cats become "trap smart."

        CATS WHO ARE "TRAP SMART"
        • Wire open your trap front or remove the back door.
        • Arrive to feed with trap in hand. Place trap at distance from food.
        • Take home your trap every day. Never leave unattended.
        • Move trap closer to food every day.
        • Place food directly outside door to re-acclimate. Then trap again.
        • If location is very safe, then make a chicken wire imitation with both ends open.
        • Leave the imitation at location.
        • Feed cats outside then inside the imitation. Trap again when they become naïve.
        • If this fails, use BOX TRAP - like in cartoons with stick and string. Called rabbit trap.
        • Build with (4)2" X 6" lumber 32" long. (click on .jpg)
        • Cut groove near bottom of three lengths.
        • Screw together into a square with forth ungrooved length elevated above groove.
        • Power staple chicken wire for a top in a bubble shape.
        • Cut a sheet of plywood to fit into bottom groove.
        • Cut a sheet of ¼" luan plywood 2' x 3' for a transfer board.
        • Cut square opening in end of plywood same size as your regular trap.
        • Cut an 18" long 2" X 2" support stick and tie string to bottom.

        Using BOX TRAP: Need your regular traps for transport. Click here to see the setup.
        • Set the box trap on ground and place support stick.
        • Lead the string across far across ground.
        • Place the bottom panel near the grooved opening.
        • Place smelly food in back center. Do not drop the trap onto cats' tails!
        • Have bed sheet cover ready.
        • Pull string briskly when cats are fully within the box perimeter. Don't injure tails!
        • Hold sheet on front of you and cover immediately. Hold down the box with foot.
        • Slide bottom panel fully into groove.
        • Set the box trap on side with the panel access end perpendicular to ground.
        • Place Luan transfer board against the bottom panel.
        • Place your regular tap with its' open back door against transfer board opening.
        • Remove the sheet from the box trap and cover the regular trap.
        • Pull the bottom panel open allowing cats to "escape" into your trap.
        • Close back door of your regular trap.


        MANAGING FERAL CATS: Click here to see two sample setups.
        • Trap, test, vaccinate, alter and "ear tip" all cats ASAP.
        • Release only healthy cats to their same colony and location.
        • Feed them at same spot and same time every day.
        • Mix six parts dry kibble with one can Whiskas wet product.
        • Use plastic dishpan for water.
        • Attempt to integrate any new arrivals. TTVAR those ASAP.

        TRANSFERRING FROM TRAP: Click here to see the setup.
        • Better to have a trap with sliding back door. Trap is covered.
        • Open the door of your crate (with cover) and place transfer board over opening.
        • Place trap against board and lift sliding door.
          (without sliding door, you need two luan side panels on the trap)
        • Remove cover on trap and scoot cat into crate.
        • Pull away trap. Close door. Pull out transfer board. Lock crate door.


        BUILDING SHELTERS: (Two kinds)
        1. 2" thick insulation foam board.
          • Cut three sheets of the 4' X 8' in half with hack saw.
          • Fit four together into a square using 6" rain gutter nails.
          • Cut opening in bottoms of two end panels same size as your trap opening.
          • Trim the two end panels to fit inside square. Fasten with gutter nails.
          • Wrap with packaging tape (most duct tape does not work.)
          • Cut an entrance and an exit. (Forget about the wind, honestly.)
          • Wrap in black plastic and bind with stretchy twine.

        2. BALE OF STRAW SHELTER: Click here to see two sample setups.
          • Place two wooden pallets on ground.
          • Place three bales side to side.
          • Place two bales on top of each end bale.
          • You have an opening of one bale in the center.
          • Place a bale along from opening.
          • Place last bale on top of that one.
          • Pull that last one to create an opening.
          • Use plywood for back and top.
          • Need an opening in front and back.
          • Wrap in black plastic and bind with twice.
          • Cut plastic where the openings are.

        TAMING FERAL KITTENS:
        • Age is not totally relevant.
        • Some kittens agreeable at 6 months. Some at not willing at 8 weeks. Generally, capture at six weeks of age.
        • Keep them in a large wire crate with narrow grid.
        • Fasten two cardboard boxes in back corner one atop the other. Boxes provide a safe place.
        • Feed rich wet food diet and separate kibble.
        • Use a large dog bowl for water.
        • Don't use clumping litter with kittens.

        TRAINING:
        • Must be visited several times per day for fifteen minutes each.
        • Gain trust by talking and touching crate wire.
        • Start to pet then cuddle each one in time.
        • Two weeks training with constant care. Require continual daily visits.
        • Twice daily visits will NOT tame them.

        RE-LOCATING ADULT FERALS:
        • Adopting family must be willing to spend daily time talking with cats. (Otherwise, they will flee when released.)
        • Use only Kennel-Aire brand 48" crate. www.kennel-aire.com (the narrow wire grid prevents attack by raccoons, fox)
        • Do not pet the cats inside their crate. You may get a bite.
        • Crate must be indoors where the doors are closed at night.
          Space can be a barn, stable or large shed with hiding places.
          Place crate in area where cats can run for cover upon release.
          (you don't want them running across an meadow)
        • Install the two cardboard boxes inside crate wired against the side.
        • Fully cover crate with blanket except for front door.
        • After three days begin moving cover back.
        • Crate will be three forths exposed after two weeks.
        • Feed a rich diet of wet food separate from their kibble.
        • Minimum of two weeks confinement.
        • Maximum four weeks confinement for cats remaining fearful.
        • Generally , after three weeks release the cats.
        • Leave the crate where it is for two weeks after release.
        • Place their food outside the open door.



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