Rescues: A How-To Kit



Tame adult cats living outdoors:
  • If location is safe then can be spayed, returned. You must give daily care.
  • If location in unsafe then capture ASAP.
    Either hold for adoption or surrender to rescue or shelter.
  • Do not release tame kittens outdoors.

Feral cats living outdoors:
  • If location is unsafe then trap and re-locate or surrender to rescue or shelter.
  • If location is safe then TTVARM:
    Trap, Test, Vaccinate, Alter, Release, Manage.
    Do not return Leukemia or FIV positive cats to the colony.

TTVARM: (We employ this approach.)
  • Preparation: feed cats in same spot, same time every day. Count all cats.
    You will trap at that time and spot. Often, they don't need a shelter. Can build a quick shelter as per below.

  • Safe Traps. Professional quality are:
    Tomahawk www.livetrap.com kittens: #605 $32.93
    adults: #608 $64.39
    Tru-Catch www.animal-care.com kittens: #18 $24.00
    adults #30LTD $45.00
    to hold females 2 days #36D $65.00
    Shipping extra.
    Tomahawk & ACES-Tru Catch have lower cost homeowner models.

  • Veterinary Clinics:
  • Need FIV/FELV Test kits:
      This is the corner stone of TTVARM.
      www.idexx.com has reduced prices for I.R.S. 501(C)3 non-profits.

TRAPPING:
  • Capture your cats on day before the vet appointment.
  • Place newspaper in the bottom of trap.
  • Use cheap seafood cat food. A little bit in center. A lot in the back on elevated tray.
  • Only takes a few minutes when cats arrive to eat. Never leave a trap unattended.
  • Cover trap immediately when cat inside. Hold a bed sheet in front of you to cover.
  • Move trap immediately to vehicle. Always keep a full cover on the trap.
  • Leave cats in their traps and store on top of bricks. Must go to vet next morning.
  • Retain cats in traps after surgery: 1 night for male, 2 nights for female.
  • Watch recovery for alertness. Release only if head up and fully aware.
  • Release cats to exact same place where trapped.
  • Continue this process until cats become "trap smart."

CATS WHO ARE "TRAP SMART"
  • Wire open your trap front or remove the back door.
  • Arrive to feed with trap in hand. Place trap at distance from food.
  • Take home your trap every day. Never leave unattended.
  • Move trap closer to food every day.
  • Place food directly outside door to re-acclimate. Then trap again.
  • If location is very safe, then make a chicken wire imitation with both ends open.
  • Leave the imitation at location.
  • Feed cats outside then inside the imitation. Trap again when they become naïve.
  • If this fails, use BOX TRAP - like in cartoons with stick and string. Called rabbit trap.
  • Build with (4)2" X 6" lumber 32" long. (click on .jpg)
  • Cut groove near bottom of three lengths.
  • Screw together into a square with forth ungrooved length elevated above groove.
  • Power staple chicken wire for a top in a bubble shape.
  • Cut a sheet of plywood to fit into bottom groove.
  • Cut a sheet of ¼" luan plywood 2' x 3' for a transfer board.
  • Cut square opening in end of plywood same size as your regular trap.
  • Cut an 18" long 2" X 2" support stick and tie string to bottom.

Using BOX TRAP: Need your regular traps for transport. Click here to see the setup.
  • Set the box trap on ground and place support stick.
  • Lead the string across far across ground.
  • Place the bottom panel near the grooved opening.
  • Place smelly food in back center. Do not drop the trap onto cats' tails!
  • Have bed sheet cover ready.
  • Pull string briskly when cats are fully within the box perimeter. Don't injure tails!
  • Hold sheet on front of you and cover immediately. Hold down the box with foot.
  • Slide bottom panel fully into groove.
  • Set the box trap on side with the panel access end perpendicular to ground.
  • Place Luan transfer board against the bottom panel.
  • Place your regular tap with its' open back door against transfer board opening.
  • Remove the sheet from the box trap and cover the regular trap.
  • Pull the bottom panel open allowing cats to "escape" into your trap.
  • Close back door of your regular trap.


MANAGING FERAL CATS: Click here to see two sample setups.
  • Trap, test, vaccinate, alter and "ear tip" all cats ASAP.
  • Release only healthy cats to their same colony and location.
  • Feed them at same spot and same time every day.
  • Mix one can wet product into half a bucket of dry kibble.
    Wet food replaces daily water.
  • Use plastic dishpan for water.
  • Attempt to integrate any new arrivals. TTVARM those ASAP.

TRANSFERRING FROM TRAP: Click here to see the setup.
  • No need to touch the cat.
  • Better to have a trap with sliding back door. Trap is covered.
  • Open the door of your crate (with cover) and place transfer board over entrance.
    transfer board is 1/4" luan plywood with cut-out larger than trap front.
  • Place trap against board and lift sliding door.
    (without a sliding door, fit the trap into the cut-out. )
  • Remove cover on trap and encourage cat to scoot into crate.
  • Slide a luan panel between entry and the trap exit.
  • Pull away trap.
  • Close crate door and pull out luan panels.
  • Lock crate door.


BUILDING SHELTERS: (Two kinds)
  1. Two sheets of 2" thick insulation foam board 4' X 8'
    • Cut one sheet into four 4' X 2' lengths using a hand saw.
    • Assemble the four into a rectangle fastening with 6" rain gutter nails
    • Mount the sides onto the base then place top on the sides.
    • Cut second sheet for end-panels to fit inside the rectangle.
    • Cut entry/exit doors 5" high and 10" long on both pieces. Fasten with the gutter nails.
    • Small entries prevent fox invasion!
    • Wrap with plastic packaging tape (duct tape does not work.)
    • Entry/exits can be in ends or sides. (Forget about the wind, honestly.)
    • Second exit allows for quick escape.
    • Wrap in black plastic and bind with stretchy twine.
    • Cut the plastic for entry/exit and fasten with tape.
    • Mount shelter on concrete blocks. Anchor down with flat concrete blocks.
    • Place in secure location only. Otherwise, do not build.

  2. BALE OF STRAW SHELTER: Click here to see two sample setups.
    • Place two wooden pallets on ground.
    • Place three bales side to side.
    • Place two bales on top of each end bale.
    • You have an opening of one bale in the center.
    • Place a bale length-wise along front end.
    • Place the last bale on top of that one.
    • Pull that last one to create an opening.
    • Use plywood for back and top.
    • Must have openings in front and back for quick escape!
    • Wrap in black plastic and bind with twice.
    • Cut plastic where the openings are.

TAMING FERAL KITTENS:
  • Age is not totally relevant.
  • Some kittens agreeable at 6 months. Some at not willing at 8 weeks. Generally, capture at six weeks of age.
  • Keep them in a large wire crate with narrow grid. (Kennil-Aire 48")
  • Fasten two cardboard boxes in a back corner with one atop the other. Boxes provide a safe place.
  • Feed rich wet food diet and separate kibble.
  • Use a large stone bowl for water.
  • Don't use clumping litter with kittens.
  • Must be visited several times per day for fifteen minutes each.
  • Gain trust by talking and touching crate wire.
  • Stroke back of head and "scruff grab" back of neck.
  • Need firm grip with feisty kittens.
  • Wrap securely in towel and rock baby,
  • Two weeks training with constant care. Requires continual daily visits.
  • Twice daily visits will NOT tame them.

RE-LOCATING ADULT FERALS:
  • The Adopting family must be willing to spend daily time talking with the cats. (Otherwise, they will flee when released.)
  • Use only Kennil-Aire brand 48" crate. All Pet Furniture
    (their narrow wire grid prevents attack by raccoons, fox)
  • Do not pet the cats inside their crate. You may get a bite.
  • Crate must be indoors where the doors are closed at night.
    Space can be a barn, stable or large shed with hiding places.
  • Place crate in area where cats can run for cover upon release.
    (you don't want them running across an meadow)
  • Install the two cardboard boxes inside crate wired against the side.
  • Fully cover crate with blanket except for front door.
  • After three days begin moving cover back.
  • Crate will be three forths exposed after two weeks.
  • Feed a rich diet of wet food separate from their kibble.
  • Minimum of two weeks confinement.
  • Maximum four weeks confinement for cats remaining fearful.
  • Generally , after three weeks release the cats.
  • Leave the crate where it is for two weeks after release.
  • Place their food outside the open door.
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