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Rescues: A How-To Kit
Tame adult cats living outdoors:
- If location is safe then can be spayed, returned. You
must give daily care.
- If location in unsafe then capture ASAP.
Either hold for adoption or surrender to rescue or shelter.
- Do not release tame kittens outdoors.
Feral cats living outdoors:
- If location is unsafe then trap and re-locate or surrender
to rescue or shelter.
- If location is safe then TTVARM:
Trap, Test, Vaccinate, Alter, Release, Manage.
Do not return Leukemia or FIV positive cats to the colony.
TTVARM: (We employ this approach.)
- Preparation: feed cats in same spot, same time every
day. Count all cats.
You will trap at that time and spot. Often, they don't need
a shelter. Can build a quick shelter as per below.
- Safe Traps. Professional quality are:
| Tomahawk |
www.livetrap.com |
kittens: |
#605 |
$32.93 |
|
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adults: |
#608 |
$64.39 |
| Tru-Catch |
www.animal-care.com |
kittens: |
#18 |
$24.00 |
|
|
adults |
#30LTD |
$45.00 |
|
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to hold females 2 days |
#36D |
$65.00 |
Shipping extra. Tomahawk & ACES-Tru Catch have lower cost homeowner models. |
- Veterinary Clinics:
- Need FIV/FELV Test kits:
This is the corner stone of
TTVARM.
www.idexx.com
has reduced prices for I.R.S. 501(C)3 non-profits.
TRAPPING:
- Capture your cats on day before the vet appointment.
- Place newspaper in the bottom of trap.
- Use cheap seafood cat food. A little bit in center. A
lot in the back on elevated tray.
- Only takes a few minutes when cats arrive to eat. Never
leave a trap unattended.
- Cover trap immediately when cat inside. Hold a bed sheet
in front of you to cover.
- Move trap immediately to vehicle. Always keep a full
cover on the trap.
- Leave cats in their traps and store on top of bricks.
Must go to vet next morning.
- Retain cats in traps after surgery: 1 night for male,
2 nights for female.
- Watch recovery for alertness. Release only if head up and fully aware.
- Release cats to exact same place where trapped.
- Continue this process until cats become "trap smart."
CATS WHO ARE "TRAP SMART"
- Wire open your trap front or remove the back door.
- Arrive to feed with trap in hand. Place trap at distance
from food.
- Take home your trap every day. Never leave unattended.
- Move trap closer to food every day.
- Place food directly outside door to re-acclimate. Then
trap again.
- If location is very safe, then make a chicken wire imitation
with both ends open.
- Leave the imitation at location.
- Feed cats outside then inside the imitation. Trap again
when they become naïve.
- If this fails, use BOX TRAP - like in cartoons
with stick and string. Called rabbit trap.
- Build with (4)2" X 6" lumber 32" long.
(click on .jpg)
- Cut groove near bottom of three lengths.
- Screw together into a square with forth ungrooved length
elevated above groove.
- Power staple chicken wire for a top in a bubble shape.
- Cut a sheet of plywood to fit into bottom groove.
- Cut a sheet of ¼" luan plywood 2' x 3' for
a transfer board.
- Cut square opening in end of plywood same size as your
regular trap.
- Cut an 18" long 2" X 2" support stick
and tie string to bottom.
Using BOX TRAP: Need your regular traps for transport.
Click here to see the setup.
- Set the box trap on ground and place support stick.
- Lead the string across far across ground.
- Place the bottom panel near the grooved opening.
- Place smelly food in back center. Do not drop the trap
onto cats' tails!
- Have bed sheet cover ready.
- Pull string briskly when cats are fully within the box
perimeter. Don't injure tails!
- Hold sheet on front of you and cover immediately. Hold
down the box with foot.
- Slide bottom panel fully into groove.
- Set the box trap on side with the panel access end perpendicular
to ground.
- Place Luan transfer board against the bottom panel.
- Place your regular tap with its' open back door against
transfer board opening.
- Remove the sheet from the box trap and cover the regular
trap.
- Pull the bottom panel open allowing cats to "escape"
into your trap.
- Close back door of your regular trap.
MANAGING FERAL CATS:
Click here to see two sample setups.
- Trap, test, vaccinate, alter and "ear tip"
all cats ASAP.
- Release only healthy cats to their same colony and location.
- Feed them at same spot and same time every day.
- Mix one can wet product into half a bucket of dry kibble.
Wet food replaces daily water.
- Use plastic dishpan for water.
- Attempt to integrate any new arrivals. TTVARM those ASAP.
TRANSFERRING FROM TRAP: Click here to see the setup.
- No need to touch the cat.
- Better to have a trap with sliding back door. Trap is covered.
- Open the door of your crate (with cover) and place transfer
board over entrance.
transfer board is 1/4" luan plywood with cut-out larger than trap front.
- Place trap against board and lift sliding door.
(without a sliding door, fit the trap into the cut-out.
)
- Remove cover on trap and encourage cat to scoot into crate.
- Slide a luan panel between entry and the trap exit.
- Pull away trap.
- Close crate door and pull out luan panels.
- Lock
crate door.
BUILDING SHELTERS: (Two kinds)
- Two sheets of 2" thick insulation foam board 4' X 8'
- Cut one sheet into four 4' X 2' lengths using a hand saw.
- Assemble the four into a rectangle fastening with 6" rain gutter
nails
- Mount the sides onto the base then place top on the sides.
- Cut second sheet for end-panels to fit inside the rectangle.
- Cut entry/exit doors 5" high and 10" long on both pieces. Fasten with
the gutter nails.
- Small entries prevent fox invasion!
- Wrap with plastic packaging tape (duct tape does not work.)
- Entry/exits can be in ends or sides. (Forget about the wind, honestly.)
- Second exit allows for quick escape.
- Wrap in black plastic and bind with stretchy twine.
- Cut the plastic for entry/exit and fasten with tape.
- Mount shelter on concrete blocks. Anchor down with flat concrete blocks.
- Place in secure location only. Otherwise, do not build.
- BALE OF STRAW SHELTER: Click here to see two sample setups.
- Place two wooden pallets on ground.
- Place three bales side to side.
- Place two bales on top of each end bale.
- You have an opening of one bale in the center.
- Place a bale length-wise along front end.
- Place the last bale on top of that one.
- Pull that last one to create an opening.
- Use plywood for back and top.
- Must have openings in front and back for quick escape!
- Wrap in black plastic and bind with twice.
- Cut plastic where the openings are.
TAMING FERAL KITTENS:
- Age is not totally relevant.
- Some kittens agreeable at 6 months. Some at not willing
at 8 weeks. Generally, capture at six weeks of age.
- Keep them in a large wire crate with narrow grid. (Kennil-Aire 48")
- Fasten two cardboard boxes in a back corner with one atop
the other. Boxes provide a safe place.
- Feed rich wet food diet and separate kibble.
- Use a large stone bowl for water.
- Don't use clumping litter with kittens.
- Must be visited several times per day for fifteen minutes
each.
- Gain trust by talking and touching crate wire.
- Stroke back of head and "scruff grab" back of neck.
- Need firm grip with feisty kittens.
- Wrap securely in towel and rock baby,
- Two weeks training with constant care. Requires continual
daily visits.
- Twice daily visits will NOT tame them.
RE-LOCATING ADULT FERALS:
- The Adopting family must be willing to spend daily time talking
with the cats. (Otherwise, they will flee when released.)
- Use only Kennil-Aire brand 48" crate. All Pet Furniture
(their narrow wire grid prevents attack by raccoons, fox)
- Do not pet the cats inside their crate. You may get a
bite.
- Crate must be indoors where the doors are closed at night.
Space can be a barn, stable or large shed with hiding places.
- Place crate in area where cats can run for cover upon release.
(you don't want them running across an meadow)
- Install the two cardboard boxes inside crate wired against
the side.
- Fully cover crate with blanket except for front door.
- After three days begin moving cover back.
- Crate will be three forths exposed after two weeks.
- Feed a rich diet of wet food separate from their kibble.
- Minimum of two weeks confinement.
- Maximum four weeks confinement for cats remaining fearful.
- Generally , after three weeks release the cats.
- Leave the crate where it is for two weeks after release.
- Place their food outside the open door.
Additional Resources:
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